Young creativity takes center stage in Paris with Jeanne Friot, Hed Mayner, 3.Paradis and Egonlab

On the second day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2026, a new generation of designers brought fresh energy to the runway. Their collections spanned a wide spectrum—from extravagant to effortlessly wearable—yet all shared a distinct creative vision. This was especially true in the work of Jeanne Friot, Hed Mayner, 3.Paradis and Egonlab.

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Jeanne Friot reaffirmed her commitment to responsible, inclusive fashion with a defiant show titled simply “Resistance”—a word that carries weight in today’s climate. Both the audience and runway celebrated queer identity, with attendees donning the designer’s signature accessories and standout pieces, while a 100% trans and non-binary cast took to the catwalk.

“These are activists and friends who brought along their friends,” explained the designer, a finalist for this year’s Andam Prize. “I wanted to offer this wounded community a moment of joy, especially with everything happening in the U.S. and around the world. I wanted them to feel unified.”

Models—lashes glittering, nails painted—strode confidently in thigh-high equestrian boots crafted from upcycled belts, a hallmark of Friot’s design language. Their presence was charged with emotion and purpose. When the final model emerged in a strapless corset gown constructed from glossy black belts—evoking protective armor—and raised a clenched fist, the applause swelled, and tears shimmered across the audience.

Staying true to her commitment to sustainability, Friot once again turned to deadstock materials, reinterpreting her signature pieces in a palette of head-to-toe white, pale pink and baby blue—the hues of the transgender pride flag. Fluid suits and wide Bermuda shorts, fastened with buckle straps, conveyed lightness and movement. Cropped tartan puffer jackets met micro shorts, while silk tartan kilts were asymmetrically cut for added dimension. A micro-tailored suit in electric blue tweed punctuated the collection, alongside powerful black cotton pieces accented with metal eyelets.

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Hed Mayner, meanwhile, embraced a more delicate mood this season, shifting away from his signature voluminous, fortress-like silhouettes. Instead, he introduced softer, body-conscious forms enriched with baroque-inspired details—floral tapestry blouses and coats, pajama-style printed sets, colorful headscarves, handkerchief skirts crafted from repurposed napkins and scarves, and organza pieces featuring delicate smocking.

Mayner presented relaxed suits and Bermuda sets without their usual strong-shouldered structure, making them all the more desirable. He cut them from fine striped wool and airy fabrics with impeccable precision. Draped stoles over the shoulders added elegance to the fluid silhouettes, while sleeveless jackets amplified both comfort and ease of movement.

The designer embraced minimalist total looks—like a lightly tailored navy jacket worn with ripped jeans, a gilet over a cardigan, or a navy pullover layered over a white shirt and paired with a trench and denim. Each outfit was finely tuned with rounded edges and soft draping. Free of rigid structure, these garments cascaded effortlessly down the body with a graceful, natural flow.

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At 3.Paradis, Emeric Tchatchoua transformed the runway into a desert dreamscape. After last winter’s snowfall-themed show, the Spring/Summer 2026 set was covered in fine sand and warmed by overhead spotlights. The designer imagined an allegorical journey across a sun-drenched landscape, where varied characters made appearances—from rapper French Montana in a relaxed deconstructed white tuxedo jacket to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac in an oversized beige leather trench.

Of course, the Little Prince made an appearance—his figure woven in jacquard on sweaters, sketched along the hem of navy shirts, and featured in Antoine de Saint-Exupéry illustrations printed on T-shirts. One surreal runway moment featured a model in a dark wool coat adorned with vintage watches, a motif echoed on several trousers. Was he a street vendor or a symbol of time slipping—or stretching—under the desert sun?

Models trudged slowly across the sandy terrain as if battling desert heat. The show opened with warm, earthy tones: relaxed double-breasted suits, layered oversized trousers designed to resemble four pairs stacked together, and asymmetrical cardigans. Pleats and folds echoed the curves of desert dunes, while silver-toned sand clung to a sheer tulle panel sewn into a one-sleeved shirt like a windswept veil.

As the collection unfolded, the palette transitioned into bold, vibrant tones with a distinctly urban edge. Shimmering camouflage sets, black suits streaked with yellow-and-orange paint strokes, and sky-blue dove-print shorts paired with striped shirts—cleverly reimagined as beach bags slung across bare torsos—brought a playful intensity to the runway. The crescendo came in bursts of fluorescent orange shirts and vivid pink trousers and jackets.

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Egonlab continued its move upmarket this season, easing away from its punk-urban roots—despite some striking cowboy boots—to focus more on tailoring. Designers Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix seemed energized by the infinite permutations of suiting. Blazer proportions shifted dramatically, with elongated jackets draped at the back and open under the arms for sleeveless wear. Pleated trousers featured ankle tabs that could be cinched with buttons.

This season was all about detail. Jacket cuffs were dramatically oversized with contrasting fabric—white on black or beige suits—while trousers featured high turn-ups buttoned to reveal statement linings: plaid on rust-toned jeans, white canvas inside blue denim, or fine blue-striped cotton in camel trousers. Some shirts had short sleeves with actual cufflinks for an elevated twist. Military trench coats and shirts sported elongated shoulder tabs.

The remainder of the collection embraced styling choices that prioritized concept over function—like oversized Pierrot collars shaped like gondolas (mercifully detachable). The designers also played with repetition: they layered fitted cardigans in pairs and styled socks in sets of three. The show closed with a striking final look—a rigid white lace shirt caught mid-ripple, resembling an ornate, weighty armor suspended in motion.