Paris: Juun.J revisits tailoring, Officine Générale refines the wardrobe

Men’s fashion has many facets. Between the wardrobe of the businessman and that of the artist, there are a thousand-and-one nuances that can be introduced to create a wardrobe that is inventive, desirable, but also practical and comfortable. This was demonstrated on Friday by the Parisian label Officine Générale and the South Korean label Juun.J, in two completely opposite registers, on the occasion of the Paris Men’s Fashion Week dedicated to Spring/Summer 2026.

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The Rue Jules Chaplain was the venue for Pierre Mahéo this season, where his company’s headquarters are located right next to the Mk2 Parnasse cinema, creating a friendly, summery atmosphere from the outset. The collection was called “Pariviera”, blending Officine Générale’s typical Parisian style with a more relaxed, seaside feel.

“It’s a little geographical fantasy, which I tried to translate into clothes with a collection designed to cope with the heat,” explained the entrepreneur-designer.

A great deal of attention was, therefore, paid to materials, to make them as airy as possible and give the garments suppleness. Several outfits were made from poplin—a parachute fabric. Others were made from featherweight stripes in a blend of cotton, linen, and Tencel. Shirts and suits were offered in seersucker weighing in at just 110 grams per linear meter, offering an air-draped body feel. Suede jackets and small leather jackets were naturally the softest, while silk featured for the evening.

The pajama-like shirt was worn almost as a jacket over a white T-shirt and flowing pants. The Mao collar shirt was also on the rise. Jackets, devoid of structure and lining, were tied at the waist like a sweater, tone-on-tone with shirt and pants. Silhouettes fluctuate, garments flowing without dwelling on the body, which was barely brushed.

Everything exuded lightness and nonchalance in this wardrobe with its neutral palette, punctuated by nautical details, from sailor knits to shirts with windbreaker collars. Models crossed the street in flip-flops or comfortable leather slippers, a scarf tied like a Keith Richards headband, sometimes daring to wear a shell necklace.

In an indolent gesture, they tucked their shirts into their pants without buttoning them. A scoubidou cord woven from cotton strips served as a belt. They rolled up their sleeves to shorten them, while the hem of the pants was hastily rolled up. And off they went for a stroll along the beach.

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At Juun.J, clothes were split and peeled. All pants, for example, were systematically lined with another model in a different fabric, hung along the right leg like a large side panel. Another suggestion was to unbutton the pants at the top on the side, leaving the waistband to fold down the front to reveal another pair underneath. Leather pants or shorts were revealed under wool trousers, jeans appeared under a banker’s suit, off-road fatigues were revealed under canvas pants.

As always, the Korean designer worked with large volumes, but this season he abandoned his usual streetwear vein for greater, almost couture sophistication. Suits were tailored to create a precise silhouette inspired by the elegance of the 1940s, while suggesting the power dressing of the nineties.

Jackets flaunted imposing shoulders, then tightened at the waist, while tailored pants drape into generous shapes. Suits were worn with flip-flops. At the other end of the spectrum, summer shorts were paired with loafers and high socks.

Occasionally, the Juun.J man went wild, donning a tuxedo jacket over a denim tank top, or opting for a sailor look in a striped knit with a boat neck, white cotton pants with black stripes and a small woolly hat. In his wardrobe, there was no shortage of leather jackets, nylon bomber aviators, military jackets, and canvas overalls.

“I wanted to show the big chains or ties errors that boys and girls make when it comes to fashion and clothing. But also how these mistakes can be transformed into a very cool and unique form of fashion,” explained designer Jung Wook Jun.